THIS DOI METADATA WAS LAST UPDATED: 2026-04-18 11:17
Full Title
Textile and Garment Magazine
Subtitle
списание Текстил и облекло
Publisher
SEUTGL
ISSN
1310-912X (Printed Journal)
2603-302X (Online Journal)
Journal Volume Number
04
Journal Issue Number
02
Journal Issue Designation
papers
Journal Issue Date (YYYY/MM/DD)
2025/04/30
Full Title (English)
EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES ON THE EXTRACTION AND DYEING WITH RUBIA TINCTORUM
Subtitle
ЕКСПЕРИМЕНТАЛНИ ИЗСЛЕДВАНИЯ ВЪРХУ ЕКСТРАКЦИЯТА И БАГРЕНЕТО С RUBIA TINCTORUM
By (author)
Affiliation
New Bulgarian University, Department of Arts and Design, Fashion program, Bulgaria, Assistant Professor
Number of Pages
17
First Page
119
Last Page
135
Language of text
Bulgarian
Publication Date
2025/04/30
Main description (English)
This article examines the extraction and application of dyeing substances from Rubia tinctorum (dyer’s madder) on different textile fibers in the context of sustainable natural dyeing. The aim is to investigate how key factors—solvent type, extraction temperature and duration, state of the dye material, dye-to-fiber ratio, as well as the use of tannin additives and metal salts (FeSO₄, CuSO₄)—influence the final color and its fastness. A total of 50 experiments were conducted, combining different conditions of extraction and dyeing. The results confirm known dependencies, such as the higher absorption in protein fibers and the predictable effects of metal salts, while at the same time revealing discrepancies with commonly cited recommendations—for example, stable colors obtained despite high-temperature extraction, or the limited enhancement of red hues after the addition of calcium compounds. Attention is given to repeated extraction and dyeing, which demonstrate the stepwise release of different dye compounds, as well as to the comparison between R. tinctorum and R. cordifolia. The study highlights the importance of a systematic experimental approach, applicable even in non-laboratory settings, as a contribution to the advancement of sustainable practices in textile dyeing. Keywords: natural dyes, Rubia tinctorum, extraction, dyeing, anthraquinone dyes, textiles, experiment