Main description (English)

Making a garment cut according to a given design usually requires using ready-made basic blocks as a starting point. It is naive to consider that only the design idea is essential to its success among consumers. Many factors determine whether a garment will be liked, but the most important thing for the customer is comfort and how it fits on the body. Achieving a good final result in less time largely depends on the perfectly constructed basic block. Using bad basic blocks brings problems in later stages, and solving them leads to wasted time and increased product development costs (Gehlar, 2008, p. 58). Therefore, choosing the right patternmaking system is very important and must meet the individual needs of the brand. My experience as a fashion designer and pattern maker for my own brand challenged me to create the best basic blocks by choosing which pattern-making system to use. This is why I started an in-depth study of the different patternmaking systems. This study provides a detailed analysis and comparison of two of the most popular systems - M. Müller & Sohn (Müller for short) and ESMOD. The choice is based on how both systems consider body proportions and shapes in detail, designs are complex, and although more complicated to draft than most methods, they are more accurate, and a better basis for developing new patterns. The purpose of this study is to identify the advantages and disadvantages of the two methods, to give suggestions for adjustments, and to propose a revised, easier-developing drafting method. Specifically, the research is based on the development of a woman’s basic bodice block. The experimental part of this research includes the following stages: Analyzing the drafting principles of both methods; Drafting the basic blocks by both methods in size 36 according to the European standard; Measuring the obtained dimensions of the constructive lines of the blocks (bust, waist, hip, etc.) and comparing; Determining the development difficulty level; Sewing the prototypes and examining them over a professional dress form size 36 according to the European standard,corresponding to the measurements used to develop the blocks; Analyzing the results and proposing corrections for both foundations. Keywords: patternmaking, basic block, fashion design, Müller, ESMOD