Descrizione principale (Inglese)

The aesthetic and functional performance of a garment is largely determined by its draping geometry, which results from the complex interaction between fabric mechanical properties and the cut and construction of a given style. Drape is conventionally evaluated through the projected silhouette generated when a textile sample or garment falls freely under its own weight, most commonly via the Cusick drape test and its derivative image-analysis methods. The paper investigates an orthogonal draping geometry of selected garment styles, of varying number of seams, in which two-dimensional orthogonal projections of the draped form are extracted, digitized, and quantitatively compared across style variants. The methodology combines image-processing techniques to determine key drape parameters—draped area, perimeter, node number, and node geometry—for each analyzed style. The orthogonal projection approach allows the spatial fold distribution and asymmetry of the draped form to be assessed independently along defined cross-sectional planes, providing a more detailed geometric description than the conventional single-plane drape coefficient. The results clarify how style-specific construction parameters (e.g., flare, seam placement, length) influence the resulting draping geometry and support more accurate prediction and design of garment drape behavior. Keywords: drape geometry, skirt style, seams, image analysis.