Descrizione principale (Inglese)

In both the industrial and the craft, artistic forms of weaving, the indispensable human intervention is established. Two operations stand out clearly, in which competence, observation and manual skills allow the normal course of the weaving process. In the preparation of weaving threads, as well as during the weaving cycle, it is necessary to restore a broken thread. First of all, it is necessary to know the location of the broken thread in the thread guides from the warping cones frame to the reed’s teeth of the loom. Any random threading of a weaving thread and the eventually error will result in incorrect weaving, repairs, and a decrease in overall efficiency. In second place is careful observation through visual control. The usual density of 3 weaving threads per millimetre requires detection of any deviation and maintenance of the specified thread order and fabric structure.Thirdly and most importantly, the manual skill to perform the necessary operation to restore a broken thread is essential. In some cases, the manipulations require the use of additional tools, such as threading hooks, for example. This implies mastered actions not only with weaving threads, but also with specific tools that have application only in weaving techniques. The core of the manual skills consists of connecting the ends of the broken threads using knots. Weaving knots have emerged as a separate category of hand-made mechanical connections, or splices. Weaving knots must be strong against the loads, especially on the warp threads. Furthermore, the knots must be of a minimum size to sink into the fabric structure, and the residual ends must be long enough to remain visible for removal when grading or cleaning the raw fabric. All of these personal abilities build weaving skills for autonomous work, but can be acquired through personal experience on operational equipment under the guidance of a training organization with leading teachers. The subject of the article is the set of knowledge, visual and manual skills for carrying out the weaving process. The development was carried out in implementation of a project under the Erasmus+ program: 2024-1-BG01KA122-ADU-000232194 “European mobility for the restoration and preservation of artisanal hand-weaving of household fabrics” with the operating organization of the National Agency for Human Resources Development Centre in Sofia. Keywords: textile craft, hand weaving, training