Descrizione principale (Inglese)

Making a garment cut according to a given design usually requires using ready-made basic blocks as a starting point. It is naive to assume that the design idea alone determines the garment’s success among consumers. Many factors influence whether a garment will be appreciated, but the most important for the customer are comfort and the way it fits the body. Achieving a high-quality final result in less time largely depends on a well-constructed basic block. Poorly drafted blocks lead to problems in later stages, and resolving them results in wasted time and increased product development costs (1). Therefore, choosing the right patternmaking system is a key factor, as it must correspond to the individual needs of the brand. Based on my experience as a fashion designer and patternmaker for my own brand, I was challenged to create precise basic blocks by selecting the most appropriate patternmaking system. This challenge motivated me to conduct an in-depth study of different systems. This research provides a detailed analysis and comparison of two of the most established systems – M. Müller & Sohn (Müller) and ESMOD. The selection is based on their detailed approach to body proportions and shapes, their ability to handle complex designs, and their higher accuracy compared to most other methods, even though they are more time-consuming to draft. These qualities make them a stronger foundation for developing new patterns. The aim of this study is to identify the advantages and disadvantages of the two methods, to suggest adjustments, and to propose a revised drafting approach that is both accurate and easier to apply. The research specifically focuses on the development of a woman’s basic bodice block. The experimental part of the study includes the following stages: analysing the drafting principles of both methods; drafting basic blocks in size 36 according to the European standard; measuring the key construction lines of the blocks (bust, waist, hip, etc.) and comparing the results; evaluating the level of drafting complexity; sewing prototypes and testing them on a professional dress form, size 36, corresponding to the same standard measurements; and finally, analysing the outcomes and proposing corrections for both systems. Keywords: patternmaking, basic block, patternmaker, fashion design, Müller, ESMOD