Descrizione principale (Inglese)

In the 60's of the 20th century, in the so-called western fashion, a new form appears - prêt-àporter (ready-to-wear, mass production of ready-made clothing of good quality at reasonable prices), which displaces Haute Couture, which has been ruling until now. This phenomenon itself is the basis for creating new business models that will change the fashion system on both sides of the Iron Curtain. The present study focuses on the processes of development of the concept of the Center for New Goods and Fashion (CNGF) between 1963 and 1968, and, respectively, building the necessary infrastructure to achieve it. Due to these events, on one hand, peculiar profilization of the CNGF as a leading institution in terms of fashion trends and the direction of development of fashion design within the so-called "socialist fashion" in the People's Republic of Bulgaria is implemented. They are the basis for and develop in parallel with the subsequent expansion of the "external infrastructure" of the Center, which towards the end of the period will include the "bridges/roads" beyond the Iron Curtain necessary for its role as a mediator. On the other hand - CNSM merges from a cultural and scientific institution to an organization that uses the field of fashion as a field for creating unique business models as well. This includes developing the infrastructure of the Center from ideological to commercial and production by creating a network of fashion houses and production bases (experimental divisions). One of the mostimportant events in the studied period and the reason for this conceptual change in the Center is precisely its transition from state budgeting to an own self-supported one..